Mosob

339 Harrow Rd, Maida Hill, London W9 3RB

 

It’s difficult to express why I choose to eat out at a restaurant. I generally abhor routine and consistency, and usually by 2 pm the muses (or my empty stomach) will have suffused me with an idea for that evening meal. On the first grim and dour Wednesday of this Autumn, there was nothing my insides craved more than a hearty Eritrean lamb stew.

Enter Mosob, the Eritrean/Ethiopian restaurant that promises and provides. Nestles between a Pizza Hut and a Catholic Church, it is one of those neighbourhood restaurants that you would not recognise immediately. Until you walk past as someone is entering or leaving, the door swings open, the bells jingle to catch your ear, and as you spin your head towards the sound your nostrils flare to absorb the warm smells wafting from within.

It must be quite obvious at this juncture that while I am not an expert on East African cuisine, I do love it. And crave it. And when my body craves it, the cravings pour desperation out of every pore. So Mosob it was for that Wednesday.

Having only been there since they quietly, almost surreptitiously reopened post-covid at the beginning of Autumn, I was happy to see that even at the achingly early dinner time of 6pm many of the tables were full and the incense was happily burning away. The restaurant is divided into two seating areas: the more conventional restaurant seating arrangement at the front, and a traditional sitting area in the back of the restaurant,. The bar commands attention in the middle of the space and, as with most family run establishments, is often buzzing with regulars chatting and joking over some Tuskers. We sat at my favourite table by the windows, and as the rain lashed away on the panes, I pored over the menu as if I did not already know what I was going to choose.

Service has historically been relaxed here, but (perhaps because of the early dinner time) the lovely waitress brought my red wine straight away and we bombarded her with questions on what to try for our starter. Having always chosen the delicious Shiro Wot (a spiced chickpea stew) she recommended we try a platter of starters, the Y’tsome B’yaynetu: a combination platter of different stews. I’m always wary of combo platters, they bring to mind family lunches out at TGI Fridays (before my tastebuds were awakened - actually these days out probably irreparably damaged my palate) and being confronted with rubbery microwaved cheese and sad, soggy chicken wings. However, I relented as I spotted that one of the stews was potato based - and if there is one thing you will quickly learn about me it is that I am an absolute slut for potatoes.

Helpful wee diagram

Following that I ordered the Ye’Beg Wot (lamb stew). There are two things I love about this dish: first, even thinking about it as I am typing this a couple of days post-consumption, my mouth is watering.  You say Y’Beg Wot and my tongue will slip and slide in my mouth like a… let’s not talk about it. It is DELICIOUS. The lamb is unbelievably tender, melting in the injera first and then your mouth. It is also very delicately spices; there is ginger, garlic, some chilli, and the mellowness of brown butter, in a thick and delicious stew. Secondly, every time I order this dish the person taking my order will give me a knowing nod, as if to say ‘good choice’, and listen, I don’t get much positive affirmation so I will cling to any scraps that are thrown my way.

From top going clockwise: lentils, cabbage, potato and cabbage, green lentils, and green beans. Lamb stew in the middle.

Our food arrived with each starter stew presented around a large sharing plate, with rolled up injera bread in between, and the main star in the middle - with more sizzling away in an accompanying bowl. Naturally, we ate with our hands (however, you can ask for cutlery if you prefer). We went around sampling the starter stews while the Ye’Beg Wot cooled in a clockwise order, refraining from any comment so as not to colour the other persons opinion. That proved to be quite difficult as Campbell took one bite of the lentil stew before him and proclaimed it to be the best thing he had ever put in his mouth (no comments, please). I wouldn’t go so far as saying that, but I would say it was quite good. My favourite was the potato and cauliflower stew (and I have since made different iterations of these two ingredients together at home as a result!) but the green beans were a close second.

The author showing off her skills

The lamb… delicious however not as tender as it had been in the past, and with one or two chewy, gristly bites. I have already waxed over-lyrical about it so I will spare you any further sycophancy and leave you with the following picture, which is a feat of gastronomic accomplishment for two people with incredibly small and very particular appetites.

Not bad imo!

We skipped the tea and coffee this time (early night) and walked headily homewards with full stomachs and happy hearts. The total bill came to £40 (without service charge but including drinks). Would we go back? Absolutely, it’s at my doorstep, people are lovely, the food is delicious. Would I travel to it? Maybe. But then again, like I said at the beginning I am not an expert on East African cuisine, so if you have any suggestions I would love to hear them!